Tour to Peak Lenin: climbing Lenin Peak — 399 euros per person!
Overview fashion district of Lenin Peak
Lenin Peak (7134 m) — is one of the highest peaks on the Pamirs. It is situated in the central part of the Zaalai mountain range and belongs administratively to Chong Alai district, Osh region, Kyrgyz Republic. Lenin Peak represents itself as a huge mountain range, consisting of ice and snow starching from Krylenko (5829 m) pass to the east to Razdelnaya (6148 m) pass to the west. A number of glaciers flow down from the northern and southern slopes of Lenin Peak. The largest glaciers are: Lenin (length of 13,5 km) and Large Saukdara (20,6 km). All the glaciers of the northern slope of Lenin Peak supply river basin Kizilsuu — the main river of the Alai valley. Mountain range of Lenin raise above the circus of Lenin Glacier more than 3000 m. The northern and southern slopes reach steepness of 45-55° and are indented by deep (100 m) cracks. The avalanche and snow slides are frequent phenomena on the slopes of Lenin Peak. The height of snow-lines on the northern slopes is 4200-4500 m, on the southern slopes — 4800-5400 m.
The climate in the area of Peak Lenin
The climatic features of the region are local and sharply continental. The summer, lasting from June till August, is short and cold. Daily fluctuation in temperature is very high. Even in the hottest season of the year it may change from +59°C in the daytime to -30°C at night. The predominant direction of the wind is mainly south-western and southern and at night it usually subsides, and sometimes totally drops. But during the day, especially at high altitudes, it is quite often windy with snow. Sometimes thick mist in the form of dry fog, materials of sand storm, penetrates Alai Valley from the east, from desert of Takla-Makan or from the west, from Afghanistan. Such mist reduces visibility and complicates visual communication. Often observable in clear weather snow flag on Lenin Peak, which looks so inoffensively, is the evidence of furious snowstorm, storming above. The mountain-climbers should take into consideration increasing possibility of chilblain with altitude and force of the wind, partial loss of efficiency due to insufficiency of oxygen, especially noticeable at the height of more than 6500 m; they should be able to organize safe and comfortable camp in any situation, including snow cave; should preserve strength and means. It is necessary to get acquainted with local signs of the weather change. Without prior acclimatized and exploring climbs the success of mountaineering can be only accidental. The best time for mountaineering is July and August.
The entrances to the peak of Lenin
Doorways. The city of Osh is the nearest large city. From which all mountaineering starts to Lenin Peak. From Osh by Pamier highway across Taldyk pass (3516 m) one can go to Alai Valley by high maneuverability cars. Then from the village of Sary-Tash, getting across the river of Kizilsuu and climbing up its inflow — river of Achik-Tash, the road lies till the meadow of edelweiss, where expeditionary camp of mountaineers is put up. One can drive some more five km till popular Onion Meadow (3800 m), further advancement is possible only on foot. It usually takes about twelve hours to reach from Osh to the base camp.
Routes climbing of Lenin Peak
In the course of the history of climbing to Lenin Peak fifteen routes have been formed. They mainly differ in only ways of climbing to the main ridge. The exception is made for the routes done, practically, in vertical line (flow of water). The most popular route by the mountaineers is from Lenin glacier across Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m). The temporary camps are usually put up to reach the top of the peak: 1 — at the moraine of the glacier at the altitude of 4400 m, 2 — 5300 m, 3 — 6100 m, 4 — 6400 m. As a rule, climbing takes 15-20 days, including ways and acclimatization. The most pleasant period of time is August. On the one hand, Lenin Peak is the most accessible "seven thousand". The automobile road reaches nearly the bottom of the mountain. The character of the mountaineering by the standard route (across Razdelnaya Peak) does not require complicated technical methods. But, on the other hand, low temperature, rarity of the air, insufficient physical training did not allow a lot of climbers to reach to the top of the peak. And memorial placards on the small rock at the edelweiss meadow remind of the tragedies that took place on the slopes of this peak.
Tourism in the area of Peak Lenin
Besides Lenin Peak, Zaalai mountain range has a lot of peaks that are higher more than 6000 m, that can be of interest not only for experienced climbers, but also for the beginners. As Lenin Peak, firstly, they differ in their easy transport accessibility. For the expedition in the district of Korgenevsky and Koman glaciers, such peaks are of interest like: Kyzyl Agyn (6683 m), Latvia and Estonia (6211 and 6282 m), Edinstva (6673 m), Spartak (6183 m), Dzerjinskyi (6713 m), Krasin (5998 m). There are possibilities for mountain tracking. It will be interesting Alai Valley itself for the tourists. Clamped between Alai and Zaalai mountain ranges the valley stretches for 135 km in width from 8 to 22 km. In Alai valley it is still kept simple way of life and traditions of nomads. The tourist can pay a visit to the chaban's yurta, have a tea, taste sour cream with bread, have a talk about life. At the foothills and canyons of Alai Valley one can come across huge pamir yaks.
The history of climbing to the peak of Lenin
1871 — the discovery of Zaalai range with domineering peak by Russian expedition under supervision of A. Fedchenko named in honour of general-governor of Turkestan Kaufman. 1928 — complex expedition of Academy of science of the USSR that comprised of German scientist-climbers E. Allvein, K. Vin, E. Schneider, who conquered the peak from the south. 1937 — the first climbing of the soviet climbers from the north (K. Chernucha, E. Abalakov, I. Lukin). 1968 — the first group parachute jump to the slopes of the peak at the altitude of 6100 m in the world. But after several in landing four experienced parachutist died, which were driven away by the strong wind. 1968 — the first descending from the peak by skiing (V. Suloev). 1976 — mass international jubilee expedition, during which 301 mountaineers climbed the peak (including 60 oversea citizens). 2003 — Kiselev team's parachute landing of the board of AN-12 to the top of Lenin Peak.
Technical description of climbing to Lenin Peak
- Base camp — Tourist's pass (4200 m). It has a well mountain path. Time of climbing: 1-2,5 hrs. There is a possibility of snowing.
- Pass — left morin of Lenin glacier. The mountain path is on the steep gravel slope. It is possible slide breaking down of the parts of the path, fall of stones form the gravel slopes. Time of movement till the crossing across the river — 1-2 hrs. Most suitable time of crossing till 10 a.m. or 6.00 p.m. Crossing is by the stones. After midday the volume of water increases. At this time the pass is possible by fording or on horseback.
- Left morin of the glacier — way out to the body of Lenin glacier (4100 m). Time of movement on morin cover: 1-1,5 hrs.
- By the open ice back to Camp 1 (4400 m). Time of movement: 1,5-2,5 hrs.
Region 2. Camp 1 (4400 m) — Camp 2 (5300 m). It is advisable to climb early in the morning, at 6-7 a.m.
- By Lenin glacier to the beginning of the launching. Time: 1-2 hrs. There are a number of cracks. When the glacier is covered, it is necessary to move in sheaf.
- Climbing by the steep snowed-iced slope by climbing-irons. In one of the regions it is necessary to climb by the fixed rope (H=100 m, steepness 40-45°). Over the launching the steep slope becomes flatter. One may come across big cracks. It is possible to use duralumin ladder and fixed ropes to overcome these cracks. Total time of movement in this district is 2-3 hrs. The exit to the peak is 5100 m.
- The traverse of the slope with the exit to the plateau to the location of Camp 2. One may come across big cracks. Camp 2 is located on the gravel slope. Time of movement: 1-2 hrs. On the whole district 2 the movement is in sheaf.
Region 3. Camp 2 (5300 m) — Camp 3 (6100 m). It is advisable to climb before 8 a.m.
- From Camp 2 pass to the ridge. Steep launching. It is windy strongly on the ridge. Time of climbing: from 1 hr till 2,5 hrs.
- The movement from the ridge to the launching of Razdelnaya Peak (6148m). The wind is strong, the snow is deep, it is necessary to make a path. The bypass is on the left by motion, by the traverse of steep slope (till 50°). In unpleasant weather, the motion is via the peak. The time motion by the ridge: from 2 hrs till 4 hrs. Camp 3 (6100 m) is located over the bulkhead. It is often windy strongly, especially at night. Stormy wind is possible.
District 4. Camp 3 — the peak (7134 m). It is highly recommended to climb earlier at 6-7 a.m.
- Steep launching by the snow and stony slope. Time of climbing: from 1,5 hrs till 3 hrs.
- By not wide ridge till the launching, called "Knife". The movement is free. "Knife" is a steep snow-ice covered ridge. Time of movement: 1,5 hrs till 3 hrs. Protect yourself from strong rushes of wind.
- The final district. The movement is by not so steep rocks on the ridge. The exit to under peak plateau (6900-7000 m). The snow makes the passages difficult. Lengthy peak dome begins from the plateau. Total time of movement on the final district till the peak: from 2 hrs till 3,5 hrs. The descending from the peak is by the path of climbing. Time of descending is 2-3 times quicker the climbing.
The provided time of movement on all the districts is relative and depends on the weight of the rucksack and the participants training.
Equipment for the ascent of Lenin Peak
Clothing and equipment that are used during the ascent of Lenin Peak client of our firm: Equipment for an ascention to Lenin Peak.
Text translation: Ainura Madmarova
Photos of Lenin Peak: Pavel Trophimov